Whole fish and steamed meatsdifferent sides of Sichuan cooking.

Chengdu offers fish in several forms: sizzling chilli-oil fish, fish with pickled mustard greens, Wanzhou-style grilled fish with soft tofu and paper-wrapped fish. For red oil and pepper fragrance, start with the sizzling version. Grilled fish with tofu brings fish, soft curds and broth together with contrasting textures.

Sichuan flavour here is about more than adding heat. Pickled-mustard fish is tangy and fragrant, lotus root with sticky rice and osmanthus is sweet, century eggs with charred peppers have a roasted aroma, and liangfen adds a cool, slippery texture. A few refreshing cold dishes make a useful opening before richer mains.

Beef and pork belly steamed with ground rice, along with Dongpo pork, offer alternatives to stir-frying. The steamed dishes centre on the texture of rice coating the meat, while Dongpo pork brings the depth of red braising. Beside sizzling fish, they give the table more than one kind of heat.

Dry-pot prawns and squid tentacles suit those who enjoy bold seasoning. A dry pot contrasts with fish in broth; mapo tofu or vegetables add another way to enjoy a bowl of rice. Twice-cooked pork, lazi chicken and other stir-fries give regular visitors more to try.

The restaurant is near Breitenbachplatz, with round tables for groups and a terrace in suitable weather. For southwest Berlin, it offers a Sichuan dinner with choices running from cold starters to mains and stir-fries to eat with rice.

Even if one fish dish brings you here, it is worth exploring further through the menu. Refreshing cold dishes, gentler steamed meats and rich dry pots give the meal contrast. When everyone chooses a favourite and the dishes come together, the range of Sichuan cooking becomes clear.