Hand-pulled noodlesand a warm welcome at Chen’s.

The first thing to notice about Chen’s noodles is their springy bite. The beef is braised until tender, making a satisfying contrast in the same bowl. Clear-broth beef noodles let the soup and noodles speak for themselves; the braised-beef version is richer. For noodles without soup, try oil-splashed biangbiang noodles.

Broad and thin noodles each have their appeal. Seasoning clings to the wide surface of biangbiang noodles, while soup noodles invite alternating mouthfuls of noodles and broth. Dandan noodles and big-plate chicken noodles are also on the menu. The latter combines chicken and noodles for a hearty meal.

Cold sides bring freshness to a noodle meal. Smashed cucumber with spring onion has crunch, while pickled vegetables add acidity: both make a pleasing change from hot broth or richly dressed noodles. Noodles and a cold side can make a complete meal for one; two people can share a few extra snacks.

For more meat, look to lamb skewers, beef-filled flatbread and chicken wontons in chilli oil. Skewers and flatbread offer their own ways of eating, while wontons enclose meat and chilli oil in soft wrappers. They make this both a noodle shop and somewhere to meet friends over a few small dishes.

The Adalbertstraße restaurant has two floors. The welcome is friendly, and staff can explain unfamiliar noodle shapes or seasonings. Even on a first visit, it is easy to find a bowl that suits. The bustle revolves around noodles, with an easy, informal atmosphere.

Chen’s appeal is an everyday one. A bowl of noodles need not call for a formal gathering: passing through Kreuzberg and sitting down to something hot is reason enough. What stays with you is the noodles’ bite and the warm welcome, rather than a menu that needs lengthy study.