Broad noodles and soup dumplingswith Shanghai small plates.

Ni’s large soup dumpling is memorable for the way you eat it: sip the broth through a straw before eating the wrapper and filling. Unlike a basket of small buns, it puts the soup centre stage. On Kleine Präsidentenstraße, near Hackescher Markt, it is a warming place to begin a Chinese meal during a day out.

Sticky rice siu mai is another dumpling worth trying. Rice, shiitake mushrooms and water chestnuts make it more substantial than the soup dumpling, with contrasting textures. Xiaolongbao suits those who prefer smaller buns. Though all are steamed, they offer different experiences rather than simply replacing one another.

Hot oil noodles are a main dish to look out for. Handmade broad noodles are mixed with chilli oil and vinegar, bringing a little acidity to the heat. Old Beijing zhajiang noodles offer a savoury sauce alternative. Noodles and steamed dishes can be combined to suit your appetite.

Shanghai small plates add other flavours: four-delight kaofu, smoked-style fish, oil-fried prawns and sweet ribs each take a savoury-sweet direction, while dressed tofu strands are refreshing. One or two alongside the noodles reveal more of Ni’s range than several similar steamed dishes.

For rice and hot dishes, there are mapo tofu, Sichuan water-boiled beef and twice-cooked pork. Mapo tofu’s Sichuan pepper contrasts with the sweet-savoury Shanghai dishes. Ni’s can therefore be a meal of noodles and stir-fries as well as a place to try a soup dumpling.

Wooden tables and benches, woven bamboo lamps and red curtains suggest an old Shanghai teahouse. Lane scenes on the walls and plants by the windows catch the daylight. It is a pleasant setting for dim sum and small dishes during a shopping trip.

The appeal lies in several different ways of eating: a sip of broth, a mouthful of broad noodles, then a savoury-sweet small plate. They form a varied meal without needing one large centrepiece, especially if you enjoy dough-based dishes but want more than a single bowl of noodles.